Onward to Hyder

Monday 8-15-2011
This was to be a leisurely drive day and it was.  We took our time leaving this morning taking time for a relaxing breakfast.  We chose to eat in the restaurant adjancent to our motel - Capri Inn and Steakhouse.  I had never had "banger" sausage, a traditional British sausage, so we both ordered it.  Although it was very good, I could only eat 2 of the 3 very large sausages. Restaurants in the north country always give a person plenty to eat.
We filled up the tank and were on our way continuing on Rte 16W.  The views were stunning while the road followed the Bulkley River, a very famous Steelhead river.  We were up and down, but always going deeper and deeper into the river valley.  Such picturesque views that I have no words to describe it all.
Wild Animal Spotting Report: A coyote scooted across the road right in front of us.  It was funny because it was like he wasn't worried about us at all, but was looking the other direction and the motorhome he must have heard coming his way.  Gary just had to tap the brakes.  We also saw a Bald Eagle soar gracefully along - love their grace and agility.  And then there was a Black Bear along the road YEA!! 
That's when one has to catch a view of an animal,  usually right along the road, because the trees and brush are so thick, they only have to take 2 steps and they've disappeared.



Road Bear along Rt 37

  Gary spotted another Black Bear right at Meziadin Junction where we split off to Rte 37A W which drops down into Hyder, AK.
We crossed numerous creeks flowing down the mountains into the Bulkley and Skeena Rivers.  Along Rte 16W between Smithers and Kitwanga were Salmon stands run by natives.

Bulkley River where the First Nation People catch salmon to sell

Our route change came at the small town of Kitwanga, B.C. and we headed north up route 37.  As we turned onto 37N we crossed over the famous Skeena River, another wild Steelhead river.  BEAUTIFUL!  The views go on and on!

Skeena River

It's been cloudy and raining off and on all day, though we had some sun in the morning.  No matter, we expected this up here this late in the year.  We've had our share of sunny days.
I noticed the abundant Fireweed plants along 37 some still blooming, others all done.  The plant's flowers wane as does the summer.  When they are all in bloom, the colors are striking, especially when there are acres and acres of them.  There are still a lot of wildflowers blooming.  There is a ground cover that has turned golden - another dimension right on the ground to fall color.
About 15 miles from the Junction at 37A is a one lane bridge.  There is no stoplight; everyone takes their turn.  It's no problem though because it's not like one can't see ahead.  Besides,  traffic isn't a problem.  LOL LOL

One lane bridge 15 mi before 37A Junction

At the junction, we turn west and begin the 40 mile decent into Stewart B.C./Hyder, AK.  Even in the clouds and rain, the views are outstanding! No matter what is going on with the weather, it all has it's own beauty.
Not too far in and every so often, the road is equipped with avalanche cross bars to close the road.

Avalanche road closing bars on 37A

Bear Glacier comes right down to Bear River which we followed down 37A.

Bear Glacier on 37A in B.C.

As we pass through Stewart, it's just a mile or so to Hyder.  Just before we got to Hyder, a barge on the Salmon River was being loaded with logs.  It was interesting and fun to watch as the two cranes perched high on the barge picked up the logs.  As the load of logs were placed on the barge, that huge barge actually tilted to one side.  Whoa!!!!  Thought I was going to have something for You Tube.  HA!

Loading barge on Salmon River near Stewart B.C.

Hyder is a very unique small town.  The Canadian road is paved until entering Hyder.  All streets in Hyder are dirt.
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Entrance to Hyder, AK

 The people are an eclectic group.  A lot of businesses come and go and that is understandable.  The winters here are brutal.  Snow is measured in feet.  Official snowfall is measured in Stewart, B.C., but Hyder always gets more.  A typical winter has 32-35 ft of snow.  One year they had 40 ft and had to dig down to get into the post office.

Hyder, AK Post Office

The townspeople take turns clearing the streets with their own equipment, which isn't the greatest. If there is an avalanche on Rte 37A, they are not going anywhere.  The town pretty much closes down in the winter with a lot of the people going to a warmer climate like Arizona or Mexico.  With the unrest in Mexico, they are choosing Arizona now.

We arrived in Hyder before our cabin was ready, so we took off for the Bear Viewing Platform - the only "drive-up" bear viewing in the whole state of Alaska.  By drive up we mean one doesn't have to fly in; you park your vehicle and walk to the platform.



Bear Viewing Platform Hyder

 The bears had been there in the morning with no guarantee when they would return.  Even though it was mentioned they could return around 2:00, bears have their own schedule and don't act on cue.  LOL  So, we stand and wait. and wait and wait. We waited in the rain for a couple hours & by now it was 2:30, so we decided to get something to eat and change into our rain gear. We were still in our traveling clothes.   First things first.... EAT so we stopped at a favorite place of ours... The Seafood Bus.  It is literally an old bus that a couple owns. She does all the cooking,  He is a commercial fisherman,  so everything cooked is fresh daily. They also own "Premier Alaskan Seafood "where they sell his catch.  There might be a day when she runs out of some fish because he wasn't able to make it back because of a storm or another cause.  She does all the cooking inside the bus, which isn't very big. There are a few booths under a lean-to outside. Recently, they added an eating area inside.  She cooks everything to order, so if there is a crowd, it could take a little while to get your order.  No problem because the wait is worth it all; the food is excellent!  We opted for the Mermaid Chowder with the main ingredients Dunginess Crab and Salmon.  Oh my.... to die for!!!  Goodness, that hit the spot.  We had an Alaskan Amber Ale to go with it.  Perfect meal on a chilly, wet day.

Seafood "Bus" Hyder

Back to the cabin to change into our rain gear and back out to the viewing platform.  There are always a lot of people hanging around waiting to see the bears and a good number of those are from Europe and Asian countries.  In talking with them, they've heard about Hyder from the Internet.  How else??  HA! That's the way we found out about it. We've been here 4 times and love the quirky town, its people and of course the Bear Viewing.
There are always a good number that have their cameras set up with lenses that must weigh more than a small child and could focus in and capture a bug 10 miles away - well maybe that was an exageration.  Of course this day, cameras are on tall tripods and are covered in something waterproof with the umbrella attached to the tripod covering all of it.  Would love to see some of the shots they get.  It is quite interesting to visit with people from all over this continent and actually the world.
As we arrived on the boardwalk, we see Forest Preserve Biologists walking through the stream doing a fish count. Right away we're thinking the bears won't come around after that. As it turned out we didn't see any return and we're certain all the commotion bummed the bears.  We couldn't have known, but it was poor time on our part.  Because of the clouds and rain, darkness was falling fast, so we decided to call it a day and return to the cabin.   0 for Monday.....



Bears didn't know they were scheduled for 2:00- on Fish Creek

Blue skies and sunny days....even as the rain continues to fall  :)